Still time for a quick one before it’s ‘BYE BYE 2016’! :)
While building my TTSH I also got myself a DIY kit of a Arp 1601 sequencer clone. The build itself was so straightforward that I didn’t see the point in blogging the details. However I made some LED mods to it and thought maybe this would be of interest to owners of this device. So if you ended up here looking to change the color of LEDs on your Arp 1601 clone, look no further! If you’re in a hurry, check the summary section at the end of this post.
While you can also find my posts related to the mod at Muffwiggler (Muff) forum, I thought my blog here is a more compact way to present the information. For one, since forum threads at Muff are created by product / project, there’s a number of discussions going on at the same time (esp. if a DIY build). So a thread can become convoluted. Second, threads which span years (or multiple production runs of a kit) can become l-o-n-g, adding to the ‘needle in a haystack’ effect. Third, if you’re not logged in the board system won’t show post attachments or the like. So it can be quite the dig looking for information you need.
But don’t get me wrong, I love the Muffwiggler board and a lot of highly skilled people dwell there. It’s just that often the format isn’t good for finding information that you need instantly.
Well maybe my ramblings aren’t either, but let’s not follow that tangent! :D
This was a quick “let’s see what happens” kind of mod for my TTSH.
In their stock config, the TTSH loudspeakers are supposed to be fastened to the circuit board, which is then fastened to the front plate. Handy approach eg. for having the electronics as a entirely separate, single ‘module’ for servicing etc. But problem with this is that it leaves a ~12mm gap between the driver and the front panel. Read More…
For ages, I’ve badly wanted a MIDI mod for my JP-4, but the urge hasn’t been quite Kenton-bad. Needless to say, when I came across the Roland Jupiter-4 IO mod at the Jupiter forum sometime this february I was pretty amazed.. and shortly after, a kit in the mail! Kinda difficult to say no to a cheaper kit with better features.. ;)
Installation was a breeze and the added functionalities also gave me a possibility to receive a bit of RTFM from Laszlo (the creator of IO mod kit). Contrary to the installation instructions, I chose to drill holes for the MIDI connectors where the audio jacks are. There’s a relatively pointless warning plate right above the jacks and just so as it happens, the plate is about the size of two MIDI connectors. If the mod had to be removed, the drilled holes can be then covered with the original warning plate. Anyway, for the connectors to be installed like this, their cables had to be replaced to match the new location.
Not much else to say about this kit than recommend getting one if you have a JP-4 :)
Moving on with the Odyssey mods..
I wanted to add CV/Gate I/O to the Odyssey without drilling the enclosure (reversible modding FTW). No choice but to make the mods external, maybe route some other signals as well.. As you probably guessed already, here’s where my Breakout Box comes into play!
Looking around the net I found some old posts where Gene Stopp had provided his solution, so I took that as a starting point. For the interconnect between the box and Odyssey, I cut up a old 25-pin DSUB extension cable. No need to solder connectors and the cable fit neatly through one of the jack holes on the rear. Who needs a sustain pedal anyway ;).. Here’s the schematic for the Breakout Box:
For the casing I picked this old plastic project box I had lying around. It somewhat matched the main colors of a whiteface Odyssey so in that sense it was a rather obvious choice.